Sewing Technique

Appliqué

1. Use two-sided stabilizer material to secure the appliqué piece to the base fabric.

2. Select a stitch.

   

   For details on stitch patterns, refer to Stitch Chart.

3. Attach the presser foot.
   

4. Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise), and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.

   

   When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.

Attaching Tape or Elastic

1. Select a straight stitch and attach zigzag foot “J”.

2. Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread tension to 2.0. (Setting the Stitch Length, Setting the Thread Tension)

   • Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement nor automatic thread cutting is selected.

3. Sew two rows of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin thread to create the necessary gather.

   
   • Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and pull up the bobbin thread. Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is raised.)

4. Place the tape over the gather, and hold it in place with basting pins.

   
   1. Tape

5. Select a stitch.

   

6. Sew over the tape (or elastic).

   
   CAUTION

   • Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

7. Pull out the straight stitch threads.

   

Gathering

Use on waists of skirts, sleeves of shirts, etc.

1. Select a straight stitch and attach zigzag foot “J”.

2. Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 5/32 inch) and the thread tension to approximately 2.0 (weaker tension).

3. Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by 50 mm (approx. 2 inches). (Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread)

4. Sew two rows of straight stitches parallel to the seam line, then trim excess thread leaving 50 mm (approx. 2 inches).

   
   1. Seam line
   2. 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 inch to 9/16 inch)
   3. About 50 mm (approx. 2 inches)

5. Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, then tie the threads.

   

6. Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

   

7. Sew on the seam line and remove the basting stitch.

Shell Tuck Stitches

The arched tucks that look like seashells lined up in a row are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

1. Draw equally spaced lines along the bias, and then fold the fabric along the lines.

   

2. Select , and then increase the thread tension.

3. Attach zigzag foot “J”.

4. Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

   One fold at a time, continue folding the fabric along the line, then sewing it.

   
   1. Needle drop point

5. After sewing is finished, remove the fabric. Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side.

Scallop Stitches

This wave-shaped satin stitch is called "scalloping". Use this stitch to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as a hem accent.

1. Select .

2. Attach advanced monogramming foot “N+”.

3. Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

   

4. Trim along the stitches.

   
   • Be careful not to cut the stitches.